Although we are advised to wear sunscreen on a daily basis to protect our skin from wrinkles and sun damage, choosing the right product can be confusing because there are so many factors to consider.   Concepts like of SPF, UVA and UVB protection are not intuitive. Most people only have a vague understanding of what these terms mean.  Furthermore, we need to know what ingredients to look for to help ensure that we receive adequate protection.  And we need to know what ingredients have potential toxic effects.

It may seem like a lot of information to digest, but choosing the right sunscreen will not only help prevent saggy skin, but also safeguard against melasma, age spots, sun spots, premature wrinkles and even skin cancer.

SPF

SPF stands for sun protection factor. Light can be thought of as waves or particles. Both perspectives can help explain phenomenon in different contexts. To understand SPF, think of sunlight as being made of tiny particles called photons.

According to one researcher, sunscreen acts like a bullet proof vest, preventing photons from penetrating the skin. Realistically, it is not possible to block out all photons that the skin is exposed to. A certain number of them will pass through. Higher SPF’s will give more protection by allowing a fewer number of photons to enter the skin.  Lower SPF’s will give less protection by allowing relatively more photons from passing through.

Common SPF’s are 15 and 30. 15 is usually the minimum recommendation for daily use.

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN UVA AND UVB

Sunlight consists of visible light waves and invisible light waves, which are longer and can do the most damage. These include UVA rays and UVB rays.  At excessive levels of exposure, UVB rays will cause the skin to burn.  They are more common during the summer months.

UVA rays are less intense. However they can reach deeper layers of the skin and damage collagen and elastin which maintains your skin’s firmness and elasticity. Levels of UVA rays are consistently available year round.

When choosing sunscreen, look for products that protect against UVA and UVB rays. Sometimes the term “broad spectrum” is used on labels. These sunscreens protect against UVB rays, but their effectiveness over UVA rays is unclear.  So it is also important to look for certain key ingredients to gain better certainty on being protected from  UVA and UVB rays. Proper prevention and protection is better than any form of wrinkle treatment.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS THAT GIVE UVA PROTECTION

Titanium Dioxide and zinc Oxide safely protect against UVA rays. However, their effectiveness depends on the overall formulation of the product.  In 2007, the FDA proposed a four star system to give consumers a more clear idea of how effectively a product protects against UVA rays. However this has not been officially implemented yet.

INGREDIENTS TO AVOID

Retinol Palmitate: Retinol Palmitate is a Vitamin A derivative. It is also known by other names such as vitamin A palmitate and retinol hexadeconate.  For pregnant women, this ingredient carries the risk of causing birth defects.

Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate): This ingredient has been documented to interfere with estrogen levels, disrupt thyroid hormone as well as brain signals in research animals.

Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3): Oxybenzone is also associated with hormone disruption and skin cancer. It can precipitate photoallergic reactions.

Octocrylene: When exposed to UV light, this ingredient creates oxygen free radicals.

Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid): This compound protects against UVB rays. However it produces free radicals in the presence of sunlight.  It has also also been linked to cancer.

If you are interested in knowing where to find sunscreens that are relatively safe and effective, start by looking at your local Whole Foods market. Or conduct your own search online. And of course, speak to your dermatologist about what sunscreen products  are safe and effective. With any sunscreen product, it is not enough to just trust the package labeling at face value. It is important to learn as much as you can about the ingredients, what they do and any toxic risks they carry.