Although moisturizers are widely available, there are so many types. Therefore individuals need to educate themselves on the different categories and make logical choices on how to choose the best moisturizer for their skin.
What is a Moisturizer?
A moisturizer is a substance that can be applied on the outer skin layer to hydrate it and counter the effects of dryness.
The term, moisturizer is often used loosely, often used in reference to other skin agents such as:
(1) Humectant
Humectants draw moisture into the skin through absorption. They can also help keep moisture locked into the skin. Examples can include: lactic acid, urea, alpha hydroxy acids
(2) Emollient
An emollient makes the skin more supple, or soft in texture. They can help replace lipids/oils in the skin. They can also prevent the loss of water. Examples of emollients include: glycerin, butyl steareate, shea butter, cocoa butter, mineral oil and lanolin.
(3) Occlusives
Occlusives are substances which delay the rate of evaporation from the skin. They can be considered as a type of emollient.
Types of Moisturizers
Moisturizers are often available in different types:
(1) Creams
Creams usually come in jars. They have a thicker consistency compared to lotions. Due to their thickness, they are more ideal for areas suffering from larger degrees of dryness
(2) Lotions
Lotions are thinner and lighter than creams. They are absorbed into the skin more readily. Lotions are suitable for milder cases of dry skin.
(3) Ointments
Ointments are very greasy in texture. They are much thicker than creams and lotions. These characteristics are often due to the use of ingredients such as liquid paraffin or petroleum.
Ointments are usually reserved for extreme cases of dry skin, including psoriasis.
(4) Anti-inflammatory moisturizers
Inflammation of the skin is a medical condition that may be related to issues with the immune system. The FDA has approved two prescription anti-inflammatory products: Atopiclair and MimyX. However, they are classified as “medical devices” rather than drugs.
A Dilemma With Moisturizers and Dry Skin
Most people simply recognize that moisturizers are the antidote for dry skin. However, the term dry skin does not have a specific and universal definition. It has to do with various forms of changes in the structure of outer skin layer. These changes can be different from person to person.
Individuals may experience dry skin in different ways. These include:
(1) Roughness in texture
(2) Presence of dullness, flakes, white areas, fissures or cracks
(3) Sensations such as: tingling, pain, stinging and itching
Therefore, there is a strong need to match the right moisturizer with the right dry skin symptoms.
DERMATOLOGY PERSPECTIVE ON THE EFFECTIVENESS OF MOISTURIZERS
Skin that has faced damage due to the effects of dry skin require moisturizers that can help repair the structure. These products should ideally include: humectants and occlusives. Additionally, they should also have the ability to help strengthen and enhance the skin’s barrier.
Effects of Ongoing Moisturization
Consistent use of moisturizers can actually effect the skin at the genetic level. Research shows that moisturizers can alter the levels of the skin’s mRNA. These are genetic code sequences which read the DNA instructions in order to create specific sequences of amino acids. The study looked at increases in genetic expression associated with
(1) the creation of specialized forms of keratinocytes
(2) desquamation (skin cell shedding)
INGREDIENTS IN MOISTURIZERS
Although there are many moisturizers which can address skin dryness, consumers with sensitive skin may want to avoid certain ingredients such as:
(1) Preservatives
Preservatives are intended to prevent contamination of the product. However they may lead to irritation of the skin. Examples include: parabens, quaternium-15 and imidazolidinyl urea
(2) Fragrances
Fragrances enhance the appeal and marketability of moisturizers. But they also pose risks for allergic reactions and irritations. Examples include: hydroxycitronella, isoeugenol and cinnamic alcohol.
How To Choose A Moisturizer For Your Skin Type
To maximize the benefits of a moisturizer for your skin, you should be aware of what to look for.
(1) dry skin
Individuals with dry skin should use heavier, denser consistencies that are oil based to help prevent moisture from escaping
(2) oily skin
Those with oily skin should choose lighter formulations that are water based, instead of compounding the amount of oil already in their skin.
(3) normal skin
A light formulation that is not greasy is the best choice for normal skin types
(4) aging skin
Moisturizers with sun protection and oil-based ingredients are ideal for aging skin. It will be important to prevent the loss of moisture.
(5) sensitive skin
Those with sensitive skin will need to avoid triggers for allergies and irritations. These include: artificial preservatives and fragrances. Before deciding on a moisturizer, it will be important to test the product on a small area of skin to see if it incurs any adverse reactions.
(6) acne prone skin
Individuals who are prone to developing acne should look for the term, non-comedogenic. Also heavy, oil based moisturizers should be avoided on the face. These products can trap dirt and debris, leading to pore blockages.
Using Moisturizers
Individuals suffering from dry skin should apply moisturizers within minutes after a shower or bath. The skin should first be patted dry with a towel.
Moisturizers can be used throughout the day, or as directed by a dermatologist.
Los Angeles patients who are interested in choosing the right moisturizers may want to list out different options before speaking to their doctor about the best choice(s).